Frequently asked questions and all the patient answers:

1.You can’t see them when they’re submerged, so why  even make such a models?

All depends where do you run your model – in the pool water is crystal clear, in the murky pond you just keep your submarines at periscope depth and eye follow those.

2. How do they submerge?

There are two types of models:

– dynamic divers
– static divers.

The better ones are the static divers – they have ballast systems allowing them to submerge like the real size vessels, but they’re much more complicated and more expensive to make. Dynamic divers are simpler to construct, but they can submerge only while moving forward as for submerging they use their diving planes to push and keep them underwater. As soon as they stop they just pop out of water. You can read more about the diving methods in this section of the RCshipyard: Technology.

3. Do you have live view cameras onboard?

No. It’s a model of a submarine. “Models” with live view cameras are called ROVs, some people also call them underwater drones as it’s a trendy word these days. ROVs don’t resemble any real vessels, they look more like underwater robots and they always drag a wire behind them, as it’s impossible with current technology (2018) to transmit video signal from underwater to the operator on surface. Our models are not ROVs so they can be fully controlled by radio waves.

4. Okay, so what frequencies penetrate water then?

The older FM ones: 35MHz and 40MHz in Europe and 72MHz and 75MHz in the US.  The current control Technology based on 2.4GHz waves is almost completely useless for us as that frequency does not penetrate the water surface. Recently people begin to experiment with the 433MHz Long Range Systems (LRS) for aerial drones and the feedback is quite good. Still those can be real pricey.

5. So how deep can you dive?

All the way to the bottom – a joke, which I found on one of the sites few years back. It doesn’t get old, because it’s true… We generally don’t dive deeper then 2m (6ft) in the pools, sometimes there is no reason to go deeper then the periscope depth as the natural waters are often murky. Some model producers claim that their model kits can easily withstand depths of 10m (33ft). Of course, if the kit was properly assembled. Radio waves don’t go so deep however.

6. So how to start into the hobby of RC submarines?

Some experience from making the surface vessels would be a good idea. Personally I don’t recommend scratch builds or plastic model ‘self made’ conversions for the first model submarine. Get a good quality KIT or ARTR. They seem expensive, but in the end it will be cheaper then correcting all the mistakes, unnecessary purchases and possible damage cause of the leaks – all of those you’ll make for sure. Getting the first model fully water tight will be a challenge. KITs for the beginners are forgiving – you may end up with not a best looking submarine, but a working one. Model KITs are always gateways for a more complicated and ambitious builds which should come later.

7. What do I need to start?

So you’re starting from nothing, but you want to get into the hobby and you don’t want kit. I’ll try to help you, but still you’ll need read a lot more then this FAQ.

– A models blueprint, if you’ll be making your own hull from epoxy/laminate or a 3d file, if you’re planing to print your hull. You can also mix both techniques – create a 3d model based on a paper blueprint and then 3d print it. If you want to make a really detailed copy of the original, you’ll need lots of photos of the original too.

– Tools, lots of tools. Except the basic ones like screwdrivers, pincers, electric drill and soldering iron, you will for sure need a small multito0l like Dremel or Proxxon with lots of various drills, bits and cutters. Some of the projects require that you’ll have access to a bench drill or/and a lathe.

– Hull, as I said earlier you can make one as a epoxy/laminate cast, print it with 3d or buy a plastic model for self conversion (which I really don’t recommend for the first time). There are people who make great hulls from laminate for money too. Write me an @ and I can try to help you with that.

– WTC – Water Tight Compartment (or Water Tight Cylinder) – the dry section of your submarine housing all the electronics, batteries and often mechanism of the ballast system. You can either make one yourself, buy a kit or a ready made. Just remember that you need a WTC in a correct size to fit your hull.

– Electronics – from those typical to all the RC hobby like a receiver servos, batteries, electronic speed controllers to those rather specialized to the submarine hobby: pitch controllers, ballast tank controllers, pressure sensors etc. Of course we need a ballast system too, so either we buy one or we make one. If want to make one will need pumps or compressors, ballast tanks and pressure tanks (if its a gas system) or piston tanks.

– Radio Transmitter (TX), more info at point 11.

– Lots of other small items: glues of various types, grease, putty, seals, lots of wires in different diameters, silicon and/or pvc housings screws and threaded rods.

8. Where to buy that stuff?

Wherever you can… Model making is a skill of finding your own solutions for various problems.
– Basic elements – DIY markets, RC and hobby shops.
– Some of the parts you’ll get at local hydraulics store, car repair shops and even medical stores.
– Specialized items for RC submarines – online stores, there are quite a few already.

9. Okay, so how much $ will I have to spent?

Quite lot – sadly. A really basic kit without a ballast system is about 250$ plus 200$ for the optional ballast system if you want a static diver. If you want a bigger kit then they’ll start from 500$ up to 2500$. If you want a really big and good quality kit with decent design you need to spend about 1200$. Of course costs of a (min 4 channel) Radio Transmitter are not included in this calculation.

10. Can you fire torpedoes or launch rockets?

Sure you can. Torpedo systems are not so hard to make now days, especially if, you have some basic knowledge about gas systems or about 3d printing and electronics. Rockets are a bigger challenge, but still possible. One of my models had two rocket tubes and was able to fire those from underwater, but the system was rather dangerous as the rockets where completely uncontrollable. Keep in mind that those systems take up space, so they usually need a bigger model.

11. How much radio channels I need?

Minimum 3 for a dynamic diver and minimum 4 for a static diving sub. Every additional function needs a separate channel – you want retractable bow planes or/and periscopes – you need one extra channel. You want bow thrusters – you need another channel and etc. Believe, it’s always not enough. Most of my submarines are controlled by a minimum of 8 channels and a maximum of 12. Remember that most of the 10 or 12 channel radios actually offer only 8 proportional channels while the last 2 or 4 channels are ON/OFF only.

12. Can you make a model submarine without all those fancy electronics especially made for the RC submarines?

Yes you can, I did start like this with my Robbe Seawolf (static diver conversion). Such model can have a static diving system, but it will still be quite simple and require a visual line of sight all the time.

13. How big are those models?

Real ships and submarines are big, so the models are big too. Models being 180-220cm (6-7.2ft) are quite common in this hobby too.

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If you still have a question, don’t hesitate to write me an email at:

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